Citronee Bistro & Wine Bar in Nevada City, CA
Now Closed.
320 Broad Street, Nevada City, CA 95959 :: Phone: (530) 265-5697
Web site: http://www.citroneebistro.com/
Sure, The New York Times recommends this little bistro and Sacramento Magazine voted it best restaurant. Are you going to believe them or are you going to take their word under advisement? Specifically, mine? Well, take it from me. This is, indeed, one of the finest restaurants I have ever stepped foot in.
Citronee is one of those rare places that achieves exquisite balance between casual and fine dining. The menu posted in the front window along the main street of this charming old gold-mining town is rather surprising. You don’t expect to find Jumbo Diver Scallop and Boudin Noir with Carrot Orange reduction infused with Cardamom and Vanilla Bean as a starter and the option for Braised Rabbit with Cognac, Orange and Dried Prunes with Creamy Papardelle as your entree in a place like this. I look over my shoulder expecting Yosemite Sam to jump out from somewhere and tell me they’re just kiddin’ and really only serve flapjacks. When he doesn’t, I can only conclude that the establishment is definitely high-end and we can’t possibly be dressed well enough. One of our party had on nice khaki shorts and a polo — which these days would be fine to wear at a nice cafe at one of the outside tables but not a place that uses words like “reduction infused” in a serif-font on the menu. I was wrong.
Though the waitstaff have on long black aprons that lend an air of something more formal about the place, the image completely dissolves when they look up at our entrance with genuine smiles of welcome. A warm wash of color set off the dark wood of the wine racks and intimate tables for two to four people. Richard, one of Chef Robert Perez’ sons, greeted us warmly and let us pick our table from amongst the dozen or so in front. Even though there are three of us, we pick the two-top at the front window so we can watch folks promenade and window shop, enjoying the unseasonably warm and sunny weather.
This is the restaurant where I had my first foie gras. Seared to perfection. Served with a slightly tart berry reduction sauce of some kind. Was there a polenta wedge? I don’t recall. I remember the flavor bursting unexpectedly and delightfully in my mouth. Little trip to heaven on a fork.
On this trip, though, we were coming in for dessert and wine. Richard gave us a run down on their various tastings they were offering and I settled on a tasting of the Bordeaux varietals with an extra fork to sample the bread pudding one of my companions ordered. It had been a while since I’d last eaten at Citronee. How could I forget the perfection with which they do everything?!The standout of the three 2.5 oz tastings was the 2004 Ciel du Cheval, Red Mountain, Vintage Red Wine from Seven Hills Winery. I wasn’t able to find a rating for the 2004 but the 2003 got a “Best of Washington” and the 2002 got a 92 rating.
I was only going to have one bite of the warm bread pudding but I was hooked the second it hit my taste buds. What was I thinking? I don’t know how Chef Perez does it, but he manages to make every bite of every bit of the food he serves to be utter perfection. It’s like magic. It’s like a miracle. Have you ever been in the presence of someone like that? It’s transcendent. I’ll have you know that I am not one to lightly give out such high praise. I can be rather persnicketty and downright unforgiving. I never give out perfect scores for anything. But there’s always a first time for everything. Chef Perez–You rock.